Working with a Garden Designer

by David Berle

Extention Specialist

Designing a landscape is much like designing the interior of a house. Colors, patterns, and textures must be arranged in a manner that is functional and suits the taste of the owner. The one major difference with landscape design is that most of the elements are living, providing seasonal change and forever growing taller and wider. An experienced garden designer has the ability to figure all this information into the design, but the homeowners must do their homework and be prepared to talk to the designer. This fact sheet will help when working with a landscape designer.

Landscaping Goals

Prior to hiring a garden designer, have basic goals in mind. Skilled questioning by the designer will help prioritize the goals and keep them realistic. He or she will discuss the full range of choices and options available to help you make informed decisions about everything from water gardens and lighting to trees and turf grass variety. Because so many options are available, professional guidance can help make the best choices but only if there is dialogue between homeowner and designer. The first question to answer is “What purpose will the landscape serve?” Is cooking a hobby that requires fresh herbs and vegetables? Is the landscape viewed only from the house, or will the occupants spend time outdoors? Are children a consideration? Is outdoor cooking and entertaining

likely? Is privacy — like building a hedge to separate the yard from the neighbor’s — an important issue?

The designer will also need to know how long a homeowner plans to remain in the house. This will affect the type and size of plants specified. Though the subject of budget is tricky, it is important to provide a rough estimate to keep the scale of design within those constraints. The answers to these personal questions need to be shared during the initial meeting with the garden designer.

Landscape Preferences

Even though the garden designer will be drawing the final plan, the homeowner can help by collecting pictures of desirable landscapes and making notes about what is attractive about them. A list of preferred and disliked plants is a good starting point for plant selection. A similar list of color preferences will help with the selection of certain plants or varieties. A folder of clippings and lists given to the designer during the initial meeting will speed the process along and avoid costly revisions due to misunderstandings.

Charges and Services: What to Expect

“You get what you pay for,” is an expression that applies to landscape design. Garden designer fees vary. Some designers charge an hourly rate. Others charge a flat fee based on the extent of the project and the amount of detail required. Services provided also vary and depend on the scope of the project. Some companies provide a complete package that includes design, installation and maintenance, thus establishing a long-term relationship with the client. Other professionals are limited to design and consulting and may subcontract with other firms for installation and maintenance, or they may suggest a firm to do the installation. The landscape plan can be achieved in many different ways. It may be a simple consultation with verbal instruction or it may be an elaborate drawing. The plan from a landscape designer may include a concept plan (various ideas about what to do with the property), a master plan (drawings showing a specific vision for the site), or a detailed construction plan that will enable the homeowner (or a professional landscape contractor) to construct the project. Detailed construction plans may include site plans, grading plans, planting/landscape plans, construction plans and details, irrigation plans and lighting plans. Garden designers can also provide detailed construction specifications, bidding documents, and construction supervision and management.

The more detailed drawings and specifications required, the more likely the services of a landscape architect will be required. Some projects may require more than one visit or multiple preliminary drawings to arrive at a suitable plan. Some designs are so detailed or sitedependant, they may require close supervision by the designer. Be sure to discuss the specifics of what drawings and services will be provided and how much each part of the process will cost before hiring any garden designer. Like other professional services, garden designers should provide a written estimate and formal agreement for services provided. It is not unusual for these agreements to leave room for flexibility in cost, depending on such things as the amount of information provided, the number of revisions required, and the extent of drawings required for the project. Shop around; fees and services can vary greatly. A better deal is usually possible if the same firm designs, installs and maintains the landscape.

Other Considerations

A garden design project may require special permits or approval, depending on local restrictions such as condominium guidelines, city zoning laws, neighborhood covenants and even waterwise restrictions. A good landscape designer should be knowledgeable about these requirements and help move the landscape project through any approval process. Just because someone is hired to draw a plan, however, does not exclude the homeowner from liability for violations. Working with a garden designer can be a pleasurable experience. The exchange of ideas and solutions between homeowner and designer is often stimulating and the end result is a beautiful landscape that makes both parties proud.

Spring Flowering Bulbs

	Giant Flowering Onion - Allium giganteum Family: Amaryllidaceae (Amaryllis) Zone 5 How to Plant: bulb; plant 6 to 8 inches deep and one foot apart in the fall Habit: upright in foliage and flower Foliage: bluish gray; strap-shaped; 18 inches long; 2 to 4 inches wide Flower: pinkish purple; borne in dense globe-shaped cluster 4 to 6 inches across; flower stalk 3 to 4 feet tall; late spring to early summer Culture: ordinary soil; full sun or partial shade; dramatic in flower - plant in clusters of 5 to 7 bulbs; usually planted in back of the perennial border; long-lasting as cut flower
	Grecian Windflower, Green Anemone - Anemone blanda Family: Ranunculaceae (Buttercup) Zone 6 How to Plant: tuberous root; plant 2 to 3 inches deep and 3 to 4 inches apart Habit: mounded; less than 6 inches Foliage: 1 or 2 dark green basal leaves; divided; dies down by midsummer Flower: no true petals - has petal-like sepals; daisy-like flowers 1-1/2 to 2 inches wide; white, pinkish, blue and white; early spring Culture: humus-rich, loamy soil; tolerated high pH; partial shade and protection from wind prolongs flowering
	Glory-of-the-Snow - Chionodoxa luciliae Family: Liliaceae (Lily) Zone 4 How to Plant: bulb; plant 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart in fall Habit: upright; 3 to 6 inches Foliage: grasslike; dark green; 2 leaves per stem Flower: blue with white center; about 5 in a cluster; each flower 1 inch across; star-like flowers borne on a reddish stalk that extends above foliage; early spring Culture: ordinary, well-drained soil; suitable for under-planting deciduous shrubs; plant in masses for immediate effect; will multiply slowly by self seeding
	Crocus - Crocus species Family: Iridaceae (Iris) Zone 4 How to Plant: corm; plant 3 inches deep and 4 inches apart in fall Habit: upright; 6 inches Foliage: grasslike; dark green; curved; silver striped down center of leaf; leaves shorter than flowers, then expand to 8 to 12 inches after flowering Flower: 1 1 /2 to 8 inches long; white, yellow, purple or striped; usually borne singly; close at night or on cloudy days; spring Culture: plant in well-drained soil; full sun or partial shade; may be naturalized in lawns if foliage is allowed to ripen properly Note: There are 3 main groups of crocus: C. chrysanthus (Golden Crocus) flowers very early and has small flowers; C. vernus (Dutch Crocus) is most popular and has larger flowers (many named cultivars of crocus are in this group); the third group is comprised of botanic species, that tend to have small, brightly colored flowers. There are Crocus species that flower in autumn.
	Winter Aconite - Eranthis hyemalis Family: Ranunculaceae (Buttercup) Zone 4 How to Plant: tuber; plant 3 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart in early fall; soak tubers overnight before planting Habit: upright; 3 to 8 inches Foliage: basal; long petioles; deeply divided; leafy bract situated immediately under flower; actual foliage develops as flowering ends; dies down in summer Flower: solitary; one inch across; yellow petallike sepals; very early spring Culture: partial shade to full sun; well-drained, moist soil; plant in masses; good for naturalizing; will self-sow
	Checkered Lily, Guinea-Hen Flower - Fritillaria meleagris Family: Liliaceae (Lily) Zone 4 How to Plant: bulb; plant 4 to 6 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart in early fall Habit: erect; 9 to 15 inches Foliage: few, alternate leaves; linear; 3 to 6 inches long Flower: drooping; usually solitary; white or mottled and veined with bronze, gray, purple and white; 1-1/2 inches long; spring Culture: full sun or light shade; moist, well-drained soil; propagate by dividing after foliage ripens Note: Arelated species, F. imperialis (Crown Imperial), bears several pendant flowers atop a 2 to 4 foot stalk with a tuft of leaves at the top of the stalk; flowers are bright yellow or orange.
	Common Snowdrop - Galanthus nivalis Family: Amaryllidaceae (Amaryllis) Zone 4 How to Plant: bulb; plant 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart in fall Habit: upright; 6 to 8 inches Foliage: 2 to 3 leaves; 1/4 inch wide; 6 inches long Flower: white except for green crescent around the notch of inner floral segments; external floral segments longer than inner ones; flower drooping; 1/2 inch across; borne on slender stalk; very early spring; cultivars may have more green in flowers or be doubled Culture: partial to full shade; moist, well-drained soil with high organic matter; naturalize in large drifts; propagate by dividing clumps immediately after flowering
	Common Hyacinth - Hyacinthus orientalis Family: Liliaceae (Lily) Zone 5 How to Plant: bulb; plant 7 inches deep and 6 to 9 inches apart in fall Habit: upright; 12 inches Foliage: 4 to 6 basal leaves; strap-shaped; margins upturned; 1 inch wide and up to 12 inches long Flower: many flowers in showy, crowded, terminal raceme; individual flowers about 1 inch across; very fragrant; yellow, rose, pink, blue, salmon and white; mid-spring Culture: full sun; good drainage; fertile soil amended with organic matter and sand; remove spent flower stalks; floral display gradually decreases each year - dig and discard bulbs as necessary; flowers too rigid for naturalizing; many named cultivars available
	Dutch Hybrid Iris - Iris hybrids Family: Iridaceae (Iris) Zone 6 How to Plant: bulb; plant 5 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart in the fall Habit: upright; 1-1/2 to 2 feet Foliage: leaves almost cylindrical; up to 2 feet long; tips of leaves may tend to die back Flower: 1 or 2 flowers; 3 to 4 inches across; white, yellow, orange, bronze, blue, purple or bicolor; late spring Culture: full sun; well-drained soil; dry, warm soil in summer is ideal; good for forcing indoors Note: Dutch Hybrid Iris originated by crossing Spanish Iris (Iris xiphium) with several other Iris species; Dutch Iris is a common cut flower used by florists
	Common Grape Hyacinth - Muscari botryoides Family: Liliaceae (Lily) Zone 4 How to Plant: bulb; plant 3 inches deep and 4 inches apart in early fall Habit: upright; 6 to 12 inches Foliage: 6 to 8 basal leaves; up to 12 inches long and 1/3 inch wide; dark green on lower surface; appear in autumn and remain green through winter; dormant in summer Flower: 12 to 20 flowers in terminal cluster on leafless flower stem; each flower urn shaped and drooping; blue or white; 1/8 inch long; early spring Culture: fertile, sandy soil in full sun or partial shade; plant in masses for best effect Note: Arelated species, M. armeniacum, self seeds more aggressively and is more invasive.
	Daffodil, Narcissus, Jonquil - Narcissus species Family: Amaryllidaceae (Amaryllis) Zone varies How to Plant: bulb; plant 6 inches deep and 6 to 12 inches apart (smaller species bulbs require more shallow placement) Habit: upright; 6 to 24 inches Foliage: about 3/4 inch wide; up to 15 inches long; shiny green Flower: one or several flowers to a stalk; 6 lower segments white or yellow; trumpet long and tubular or short and cuplike, white, pink, yellow, orange and orange-red; flowers single or double; extremely variable - Narcissus are grouped into 12 named divisions; early spring to spring Culture: well-drained soil enriched with organic matter; divide every fourth year after leaves have died; easy to grow; remove faded flowers so they don’t set seeds Note: The name daffodil applies primarily to flowers with large trumpets and can be used for all members of the genus; the name jonquil originally applied only to N. jonquilla, but now is usually applied to all jonquilla daffodils of garden origin (Division 7); the name narcissus is derived from the genus name Narcissus.
	Siberian Squill - Scilla siberica Family: Liliaceae (Lily) Zone 4 How to Plant: bulb; plant 3 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart in early fall Habit: upright; 6 inches Foliage: 2 to 5 grasslike, basal leaves; 6 inches long and 1/2 inch wide; blunt tipped and bright green Flower: deep blue; bell shaped; 1/2 inch wide; in loose cluster of 3 to 5; 1 to 6 flower stems per plant; early spring Culture: fertile, sandy soil in sun or partial shade; useful under deciduous shrubs and trees; plant in large masses for best effect; tend to colonize over time; suitable for naturalizing in the lawn (foliage matures quickly before turfgrass needs cutting)
	Tulip - Tulipa species Family: Liliaceae (Lily) Zone varies How to Plant: bulb; plant 4 to 8 inches deep and 4 to 8 inches apart in fall; deep planting (within reason) discourages bulbs multiplication and encourages good-sized flowers for several years; species tulips usually require shallower planting Habit: upright or clumped; 6 to 30 inches Foliage: usually basal; thick bluish green; untoothed; 6 to 10 inches long; Kaufmanniana and Greigii hybrids often have burgundy-or purple-mottled leaves Flower: usually solitary; erect; saucer-shaped; total of 6 petals and sepals (except doubles); multitude of colors and flower forms (there are over 400 named cultivars: common classes are Mendel, Fosteriana hybrids, Kaufmanniana hybrids, Greigii hybrids, Triumph, Darwin hybrid, Lily-flowered, Cottage, Rembrandt, Parrot, Double-flowered and Species tulips); early spring to spring Culture: well-drained, sandy, humus-rich soil in full sun or partial shade; plant in masses; bulbs may be moved or discarded in midsummer after foliage has withered; some gardeners plant new bulbs each year; remove faded flowers to avoid seed set from http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/bulbs/springbulbs.html

PLASTICS MAY REPLACE CHEMICALS AS PLANT GROWTH REGULATORS

Red Gum Lerp Psyllid Update

According to University of California Entomologist Donald Dahlsten, the natural enemy introduced into California to control the eucalyptus red gum lerp psyllid is now established in eight California counties: San Mateo, Alameda, Los Angeles, San Diego, Santa Clara, Ventura, Monterey, and Orange. Dahlsten advises people to be patient, as a successful biological control program to control the lerp psyllid is likely to take some time. Dahlsten is in charge of the program that is rearing and releasing the parasites (tiny wasps) in various locations throughout the state. If the parasitoids are like others released over the years to control various pests, they will spread on their own throughout the remainder of the infested areas.

Some Plants May Be Pruned Now, Others Later

We can’t let winter go by without a discussion of pruning. For many people, winter and pruning go hand in hand, but the best time to prune really depends upon the kind of plant and the desired results. You can do light pruning anytime on most trees and shrubs. Regardless of the time of year, removing unwanted growth while it is small is easier and will have a less dwarfing effect on the plant than if removed later. Pruning out broken, dead, weak or heavily shaded branches also will have little or no dwarfing effect on the tree no matter when they are removed.

Evergreen trees and shrubs will be set back the least if you prune them just before spring growth begins. Most evergreen plants make their most rapid growth after the weather warms later in the season. Pruning these plants just before the period of most rapid growth keeps the most leaves productive for the longest time. Also, the pruning cuts will be quickly concealed by new growth.

If your plants are growing in a limited space and you want to hold them back, prune when growth is about complete. For many plants, the time to prune for maximum dwarfing is usually in late spring to mid summer. For example, many gardeners maintain fruit trees in small areas with summer pruning. Pruning during this period reduces leaf area for the longest period of time. However, pruning should not be so severe nor so early as to encourage new shoot growth. If you spring prune ornamental evergreen shrubs and trees, especially in highly visible spots in your landscape, try to make the cuts so they are not easily seen.

You can effectively direct the growth of young trees of all kinds of young trees during the spring and summer growing season. Encourage branches in desirable positions by pinching back or thinning the foliage of competing branches, or by entirely removing the competing branches that are in less desirable positions.

Corrective pruning can be done at any time, from winter through summer. However some problems are best corrected during the growing season when they are obvious. For instance, branches on fruit trees that are too low because of the weight of the fruit should be partially or completely thinned at the time the fruit is present. Dead or weak limbs should be removed in winter, but often they are easier to identify and remove in summer.

The correct time to prune flowering trees depends upon the flowering habit of the tree. Plants which bloom on current season’s growth, such as the crape myrtle, should be pruned during winter, before spring growth begins. Moderate to severe pruning will favor larger blossom clusters. Plants which flower in spring from buds on one-year old shoots, especially the flowering fruit trees, should be pruned at or near the end of the bloom period. That way you can enjoy the blossoms, then prune to encourage vigorous growth for next year’s bloom.

Pruning wounds sometimes exude plant fluids or “bleed” profusely on such trees as elm, maple, mulberry and oak. You can minimize such bleeding by keeping the cuts small (less than three inches in diameter and pruning in fall or early winter. The problem is more likely if pruning is done just before growth begins in spring. Bleeding is usually not harmful to the tree, but if it is heavy and persistent, it may cause bark injury below the pruning cut.

Young Trees, Like Children, Need Careful Training

While we’re on the topic of pruning, here are some thoughts to keep in mind as you train newly planted trees: 1) no more pruning should take place in a single year than is needed to enhance the shape or structural strength of the tree; 2) training can take place progressively over the next three to five years.

Unless the tree has a natural multi-stemmed habit, most landscape trees should be trained to a single dominant or “central” leader. The central leader is the topmost vertical stem extending from the trunk. Prune back competing lateral branches that threaten to grow taller than the leader. Double or “codominant leaders,” if left unattended, can pose serious structural problems for trees as they age. One of the two stems (usually the weaker stem) should be removed to establish the central leader.

During the years when you are training your young tree, you will also need to identify those primary limbs (scaffold limbs) that will eventually make up the tree’s framework. The height to the lowest scaffold limb will be determined partly by the anticipated activities that will occur under or near the tree. For example, if the tree is near a sidewalk, the lowest permanent limb will need to be at least eight feet high on the trunk to allow for clearance. For some small young trees, there may not be any permanent lateral limbs present for a year or two.

While you are waiting for the tree to grow and develop, it is very important to leave small temporary limbs on the tree at lower heights than eventually will be desired. Remember, these small limbs have leaves, and leaves are essential for nourishing the young tree.

When you finally begin to select permanent lateral limbs, select those that are spaced evenly and are distributed radially around the trunk and central leader. For trees that are expected to have a trunk diameter of 12 inches or greater at maturity, permanent lateral limbs should be spaced at least 18 inches apart along the trunk. Trees such as ash frequently have major branches occurring in pairs across the main stem. Pruning these alternately up to a height of 12 to 18 feet will create a structurally sound tree that is attractive and balanced. Never let one limb grow directly over a lower one.

You should give every tree you plant a level of care that will enable them to become established, then prosper for many years to come. Training trees when they are young will help ensure good growth and long term structural stability.

Moss and Algae Do Well In Wet Weather And Poorly Drained Soils

Our wet weather this winter has created ideal conditions for the growth of moss and algae in lawns, and I’ve received several requests for information on how to control the problem. When moss or algae invade a lawn, they weaken the grass plants by forming barriers to air and water movement into the soil,.

Mosses and algae are both primitive, nonflowering and rootless plants that form mats on the soil surface, preventing water and air from reaching grass roots. Mosses and algae are not plant parasites, and do not attack and harm grass directly.

Moss and algae require specific soil and climatic conditions to develop; they are favored by soil compaction and poor drainage, too much water, and a thick thatch layer. Also, moss is favored by low soil fertility, acidic soil conditions and heavy shade. Unlike moss, algae is favored by high soil fertility.

The best way to control moss and algae in turfgrass is to eliminate the causes of their growth while keeping the grass growing vigorously. Some of the things you can do include the following:

· Fertilize the lawn, if moss is the problem, or withhold fertilizer, if algae is the

problem.

· Aerate or core the lawn to reduce compaction and improve water penetration.

· Improve soil drainage by installing drain tiles or dry wells.

· Reduce the amount of water you apply.

· Remove excess thatch.

· If moss is present, reduce shade by selective pruning of trees and shrubs.

Where moss and algae are thick, you may want to apply certain chemicals for complete control. Spray applications of copper sulfate, ferrous sulfate or ferrous ammonium sulfate at the rate of 2 or 3 ounces dissolved in 4 gallons of water per 1,000 square feet works well. You may need to repeat the application if the infestation is severe. Copper sulfate may temporarily damage the grass, so use it only on very severe moss or algae infestations. Keep in mind that chemical treatments provide only temporary control, and that long term control depends upon eliminating the cause of the problem.

Nematodes and Woody Landscape Plants

Landscape gardeners sometimes encounter root knot nematode infestations in annual flower beds. Root knot nematodes usually cause distinctive swellings, called galls, on the roots of affected plants, making it fairly easy to identify an infestation. Because trees and shrubs may be growing in the same location, I’m sometimes asked what tree and shrub species are known to be susceptible to nematode injury. The following woody landscape plant species are known or suspected of being damaged by root knot nematodes in California: albezia, alder, boxwood, cactus, catalpa, cedar, euonymus, gingko, hibiscus, hydrangea, juniper, mulberry, oak, palm, pittosporum, rose and tamarisk.

While annual plants may be killed by nematodes, woody plants are rarely killed. Nematode injury to woody plants is usually less obvious and often more difficult to diagnose. Woody landscape plants that are heavily infested may have reduced growth and branch tip dieback and may defoliate earlier than normal. You can confirm a nematode infestation by collecting soil and root samples and sending the material to a laboratory for positive identification of the nematodes.

(Source: Nematodes. UC IPM Pest Note No. 7489. Univ. of Calif. Div. of Agric. and Natural Resources)

Coast Redwood Tree Problems

As well as coast redwoods (Sequoia sempervirons) seem to do in the Valley, I’m often asked to diagnose redwoods that have developed dead branches and seem to be dying. The calls for help are as common in winter as in summer. It’s important to understand that while coast redwood trees are susceptible to some serious diseases, they are most often injured or killed by abiotic (non parasitic) problems. They tend to grow poorly in heavy soils that are too wet, or in dry, compacted soils with poor drainage. High levels of soluble salts such as boron or sodium will stunt their growth and cause their leaves to turn yellow and “burn.” Coast redwoods are also susceptible to iron deficiency, especially in soils that have a high pH. They may be injured by freezing temperatures, especially in dry soil. Likewise, they will develop brown and scorched leaves during our hot and dry summers, especially if they’re not adequately watered. Drought stressed trees may then be attacked by bark beetles.

In dry or compacted soils the trees will grow slowly, and their trunks develop a distinct taper. Under ideal soil and moisture conditions, the trunks will be nearly the same diameter from the base of the tree to several feet high. Some brown foliage in the interior of the tree is normal. In fact, it is normal for the oldest leaves to turn yellow, then brown, and finally drop from the tree in late summer and early fall. It is also normal for short twigs to turn brown and fall. New growth at the ends of branches indicates that the branches are alive and healthy, despite some dieback of twigs and leaves.

As mentioned, coast redwoods are susceptible to some diseases. In the Stanislaus County area I’ve identified redwoods infected by Botryosphaeria canker (Botryosphaeria dothidea), crown rot (Phytophthora sp.) and Armellaria root rot (Armillaria mellea). However, these diseases are relatively uncommon on redwoods here. If you’re trying to diagnose a redwood problem, be sure to consider soil and water-related problems first.

Plastics May Help Replace Chemicals as Plant Growth Regulators

To help commercial nurseries keep plants uniform in size, University of Florida researchers are testing colored plastic films that filter out growth-promoting light waves. Sandy Wilson, an assistant professor of environmental horticulture with UF's Institute of Food and Agricultural Sciences, said the photo-selective plastic green film in her current experiment filters out far-red light, which is responsible for stem elongation in plants. Wilson’s goal is to inhibit stem elongation in annuals and perennials without sacrificing plant quality.

The horticulture industry prefers uniform plant size because it speeds plant establishment in the field and makes it easier to pack and ship mature plants. Chemicals are currently used to control plant height, but because of increasing environmental concerns, researchers are trying to find other methods to control plant height.

According to Wilson, most plants grown under the far-red light absorbing green film are about 25 percent shorter than plants grown under clear film, which is used as a control standard to compare effects of the colored film. The results are comparable to plants treated with chemical growth regulators.

One of the problems encountered so far has been a short film life. The dyes start to degrade after one year, so research is being conducted to increase the stability of the dyes. Another problem is delayed flowering time for certain species. Wilson says that growers may need to group plants in the greenhouse according to their light requirements, because photo-selective film has different effects on certain species.

Free Publications Recently Posted to the Online Catalog

These publications can be accessed for free as an HTML web page or as a downloadable PDF

document from http://anrcatalog.ucdavis.edu.

7490 Clovers: Pest Notes for Home and Garden

7491 Dallisgrass: Pest Notes for Home and Garden

7492 Glassy-Winged Sharpshooter: Pest Notes for Home and Garden

7493 Powdery Mildew on Ornamentals: Pest Notes for Home and Garden

7494 Powdery Mildew on Fruits and Berries: Pest Notes for Home and Garden

7495 Windscorpion: Pest Notes for Home and Garden

8040 Alternaria Diseases

8041 Damping Off Diseases

8042 Sclerotinia Diseases

8043 Biotechnology Provides New Tools for Plant Breeding

8046 Planting Landscape Trees

Recently Revised Pest Notes

7403 Elm Leaf Beetle

Upcoming Meetings:

Landscaping With Nature - Workshops for Professionals and Homeowners

Date: Wednesday, February 20, 2002

Time: Main Session - 8:00 a.m. to 4:00 p.m.; evening homeowner session - 6:30 to 9:00 p.m.

Place: Stanislaus County Agricultural Center, 3800 Cornucopia Way, Modesto, CA

Fee: $30 pre-conference; $35 at the door (evening session free)

Topics: This workshop will offer cutting edge information on sustainable landscape design, integrated pest management, drought tolerant plants, proven business strategies, creating habitat gardens and much more.

Information: Sarah Potenza, Ecological Farming Assoc. Watsonville, CA (831)763-2111)

To Register: Call the EFA Office (831)763-2111, or register online at www.eco-farm.org.

(DPR & CCA units applied for)

Phytoremediation:

Using Plants To Clean Up Soils
Plant physiologist Leon Kochian (left) and molecular biologist David Garvin examine wheat plants of various genotypes being studied for aluminum tolerance. (K8781-4)	When it comes to helping clean up soils contaminated with heavy and toxic metals, nature has ARS plant physiologist Leon V. Kochian to thank. During 13 years of research at the U.S. Plant, Soil, and Nutrition Laboratory at Ithaca, New York, Kochian has become an authority on mechanisms used by certain plants to take up essential mineral nutrients and toxic heavy metals from soils. He has also characterized strategies some plants use to tolerate toxic soil environments. Kochian is an international expert on plant responses to environmental stress, plant mineral nutrition, and use of plants to clean up or remediate soils contaminated with heavy metals and radioisotopes. Besides providing important new information on how to use plants in this practical way, Kochian's research may also shed light on an important nutritional concern: how to prevent toxic metals from entering the food chain. "One of the primary ways toxic heavy metals, such as cadmium, get in food is through plant uptake—the metal is taken up by the roots and deposited in edible portions," he says.
The lack of vegetation in the barren area above is a result of the soil's high zinc content and low pH. This site in Palmerton, Pennyslvania, was contaminated by a zinc smeltry operated from 1890 to 1980. (K6057-11)	"Contaminated soils and waters pose major environmental, agricultural, and human health problems worldwide," says Kochian. "These problems may be partially solved by an emerging new technology—phytoremediation." "Green" Technology: Simple Concept and Cost-Effective Phytoremediation is the use of green plants to remove pollutants from the environment or render them harmless. "Current engineering-based technologies used to clean up soils—like the removal of contaminated topsoil for storage in landfills—are very costly," Kochian says, "and dramatically disturb the landscape." Kochian's cost-effective "green" technology uses plants to "vacuum" heavy metals from the soil through their roots. He says, "Certain plant species—known as metal hyperaccumulators—have the ability to extract elements from the soil and concentrate them in the easily harvested plant stems, shoots, and leaves. These plant tissues can be collected, reduced in volume, and stored for later use." While acting as vacuum cleaners, the unique plants must be able to tolerate and survive high levels of heavy metals in soils—like zinc, cadmium, and nickel.
Plant physiologist Leon Kochian (right) and Cornell University support scientist Jon Shaff analyze compounds released from sorghum roots. (K8783-1)	"Phytoremediation has been hampered historically by our inadequate understanding of transport and tolerance mechanisms," says Kochian. To address this deficit, Kochian—working with ARS research associate Deborah L. Lethman, Cornell University postdoctora postdoctoral associates Mitch Lasat and Paul B. Larsen, and graduate students Nicole S. Pence and Stephen D. Ebbs—has been studying a unique and promising metal hyperaccumulator. The plant is Thlaspi caerulescens, commonly known as alpine pennycress. "Thlaspi is a small, weedy member of the broccoli and cabbage family," Kochian says. "It thrives on soils having high levels of zinc and cadmium." His lab has been trying to discover the underlying mechanism that enables T. caerulescens to accumulate excessive amounts of heavy metals. How Plants Clean Up "Hyperaccumulators like Thlaspi are a marvelous model system for elucidating the fundamental mechanisms of—and ultimately the genes that control—metal hyperaccumulation," says Kochian. "These plants possess genes that regulate the amount of metals taken up from the soil by roots and deposited at other locations within the plant. "There are a number of sites in the plant that could be controlled by different genes contributing to the hyperaccumulation trait," says Kochian. "These genes govern processes that can increase the solubility of metals in the soil surrounding the roots as well as the transport proteins that move metals into root cells. From there, the metals enter the plant's vascular system for further transport to other parts of the plant and are ultimately deposited in leaf cells."
Alpine pennycress doesn't just thrive on soils contaminated with zinc and cadmium it cleans them up by removing the excess metals. (K6054-9)	Kochian's team has gained insights into how, at the molecular level, Thlaspi accumulates these metals in its shoots at astoundingly high levels. "A typical plant may accumulate about 100 parts per million (ppm) zinc and 1 ppm cadmium. Thlaspi can accumulate up to 30,000 ppm zinc and 1,500 ppm cadmium in its shoots, while exhibiting few or no toxicity symptoms," he says. "A normal plant can be poisoned with as little as 1,000 ppm of zinc or 20 to 50 ppm of cadmium in its shoots." The research also suggests an approach for economically recovering these metals. "Zinc and cadmium are metals that can be removed from contaminated soil by harvesting the plant's shoots and extracting the metals from them," he says.
Above, Cornell University research associate Miguel Pineros (left) and plant physiologist Leon Kochian study some of these mechanisms in corn. ( K8782-1)	After investigating the molecular physiology of zinc hyperaccumulation in Thlaspi, Kochian's group found that several key sites for zinc transport were greatly stimulated in this plant. To get at the mechanism underlying the stimulation, they cloned a zinc transport gene—one of the first such accomplishments achieved with any plant. This breakthrough enabled the researchers to discover that zinc transport is regulated differently in normal and hyperaccumulator plants. "In normal plants, the activity of zinc transporter genes is regulated by the zinc levels in the plant," he says. "In Thlaspi, however, these genes are maximally active at all times—independent of plant zinc levels—until you raise the tissue zinc levelsto very high concentrations. This results in very high rates of zinc transport from the soil and movement of this metal to the leaves." It Even Works With Uranium For soil contaminated with uranium, Kochian found that adding the organic acid citrate to soils greatly increases both the solubility of uranium and its bioavailability for plant uptake and translocation. Citrate does this by binding to insoluble uranium in the soil.
Leon Kochian and ARS research associate Deborah Lethman study electrophoresis films to identify Thlaspi caerulescens genes responsible for heavy-metal transport. (K8785-1)	"With the citrate treatment, shoots of test plants increased their uranium concentration to over 2,000 ppm—100 times higher than the control plants," he says. This demonstrates the possibility of using citrate—an inexpensive soil amendment—to help plants reduce uranium contamination. Recently, Kochian, with colleagues Lasat and Ebbs, identified specific agronomic practices and plant species to remediate soils contaminated with radioactive cesium or cesium-137. "Although the cause of cesium-137 contamination—aboveground nuclear testing—has been reduced, large land areas are still polluted with radiocesium," Kochian says. "Cesium is a long-lived radioisotope with a half-life of 32.2 years. It contaminates soils at several U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) sites in the United States. Projected costs of cleaning up these soils is very high—over $300 billion." Phytoremediation is an attractive alternative to current cleanup methods that are energy intensive and very expensive.
Leon Kochian (left) and molecular biologist David Garvin check wheat plants for aluminum tolerance. Some wheat and corn plants can tolerate aluminum by excluding the metal from the root tip. (K8781-1)	In initial lab and greenhouse studies, Kochian's team showed that the primary limitation to removing cesium from soils with plants was its bioavailability. The form of the element made it unavailable to the plants for uptake. In a series of soil extraction studies, Kochian's team found the ammonium ion was most effective in dissolving cesium-137 in soils. This treatment increased the availability of cesium-137 for root uptake and significantly stimulated radioactive cesium accumulation in plant shoots. Later, Kochian did field studies with six different plant species in collaboration with Mark Fuhrmann, a DOE scientist at Brookhaven National Laboratory in Upton, New York. They found significant variation in the effectiveness of plant species for cleaning up contaminated sites. "One species, a pigweed called Amaranthus retroflexus, was up to 40 times more effective than others tested in removing radiocesium from soil. We were able to remove 3 percent of the total amount in just one 3-month growing season," says Kochian. "With two or three yearly crops, the plant could clean up the contaminated site in less than 15 years." As a result of Kochian's findings, DOE is performing pilot studies at Brookhaven using this technology.
Hyperaccumulators like Thlaspi possess genes that regulate the amount of metals taken up from the soil by roots and deposited at other locations within the plant. (K8784-10)	Aluminum Hurts Crops Worldwide Kochian's lab is also working on finding ways to grow crops on marginal lands such as acid soils, where toxic levels of aluminum limit crop production. Aluminum is the third most abundant element in the Earth's crust; it is a major component of clays in soil. At neutral or alkaline pH values, aluminum is not a problem for plants. However, in acid soils a form of aluminum—Al+3—is solubilized into a soil solution that is quite toxic to plant roots. For years, scientists have been baffled by the causes of aluminum toxicity in plants. "Aluminum toxicity limits crop production on acid soils, which cover well over half of the world's 8 billion acres of otherwise arable land, including about 86 million acres in the United States," Kochian says. "When soils become acid, the toxic aluminum damages plant root systems, which greatly reduces yields." Kochian's research in collaboration with ARS plant molecular biologist David F. Garvin uses an interdisciplinary approach integrating molecular, genetic, and physiological research to provide insights into how particular genetic types of some plant species—including wheat, corn, and sorghum—can tolerate high levels of the metal in acid soils. "We found that the root tip is the key site of injury, leading to inhibited root growth, a stunted root system, and reduced yields or crop failures from decreased uptake of water and nutrients," Kochian says. "Aluminum triggers the release of protective organic acids, specifically from the root tip into adjacent soil. When released, these acids form a complex with the toxic aluminum, preventing the metal s entry into the root. Wheat and corn tolerate aluminum by excluding the metal from the root tip," Kochian says. Kochian is also conducting research on an aluminum tolerance mechanism in collaboration with plant molecular biologist Steve H. Howell of Boyce Thompson Institute at Cornell, using thale cress, Arabidopsis thaliana, a diminutive, weedy member of the mustard family. He and colleagues have successfully identified Arabidopsis mutants that are aluminum tolerant. Kochian is studying differences between these mutants and a wild type of Arabidopsis to identify the molecular basis of tolerance. The ultimate goal of this research is to isolate the genes conferring aluminum tolerance. It should then be possible to improve the tolerance of relatively aluminum-sensitive crop species, such as barley, or to further enhance the tolerance of existing al aluminum-tolerant germplasm. "One of the major goals for agricultural scientists for the immediate future is to increase food production to keep up with an ever-growing world population," Kochian says. "As much of the world's best agricultural land is already under cultivation or is being lost to industrialization, there is increasing pressure for farmers to cultivate marginal lands such as the huge expanses of acid soils that are not currently used for production." He continues, "Research aimed at producing crop genotypes that tolerate the suboptimal conditions of these marginal lands is one way global food production can be increased significantly. Being able to produce a wider range of crop species with increased aluminum tolerance will make a major contribution to these efforts to cultivate marginal, stressed soil environments." Besides helping farmers who grow crops on acid soils, Kochian's phytoremediation research findings are used by other scientists in government and academia and by environmental consultants, government, and industry groups complying with cleanup of contaminated sites. For his landmark phytoremediation research, Kochian has received two awards: in 1999, the U.S. Department of Agriculture Secretary's Honor Award for Environmental Protection and an award as ARS 1999 Outstanding Senior Scientist of the Year.—By Hank Becker, Agricultural Research Service Information Staff. This research is part of Plant Biological and Molecular Processes, an ARS National Program (#302) described on the World Wide Web at http://www.nps.ars.usda.gov/programs/cppvs.htm. Leon V. Kochian is with the USDA-ARS Plant, Soil, and Nutrition Laboratory, Cornell University, Tower Rd., Room 121, Ithaca, NY 14853-2901; phone (607) 255-2454, fax (607) 255-2459.
Agronomist Rufus Chaney examines the roots of a metal-accumulating Thlaspi plant in a growth chamber. (K6064-8)	Today's "Phyto-miners" Rush to the Cry of "There's Metals in Them Thar Plants!" Gold rush miners might have been better off using plants to find gold rather than panning streams for the precious metal. Early prospectors in Europe used certain weeds as indicator plants that signaled the presence of metal ore. These weeds are the only plants that can thrive on soils with a high content of heavy metals. One such plant is alpine pennycress, Thlaspi caerulescens, a wild perennial herb found on zinc- and nickel-rich soils in many countries. This plant occurs in alpine areas of Central Europe as well as in our Rocky Mountains. Most varieties grow only 8 to 12 inches high and have small, white flowers. In 1998, ARS agronomist Rufus L. Chaney and colleagues in ARS, at the University of Maryland, and in England patented a method to use such plants to "phyto-mine" nickel, cobalt, and other metals. Chaney says biomining is the use of plants to mine valuable heavy-metal minerals from contaminated or mineralized soils, as opposed to decontaminating soils. "The crops would be grown as hay. The plants would be cut and baled after they'd taken in enough minerals," Chaney says. "Then they'd be burned and the ash sold as ore. Ashes of alpine pennycress grown on a high-zinc soil in Pennsylvania yielded 30 to 40 percent zinc—which is as high as high-grade ore. Electricity generated by the burning could partially offset biomining costs." USDA has signed a cooperative research and development agreement with Viridian Environmental, a technology company based in Houston, Texas. The CRADA involves Scott Angle at the University of Maryland; Alan J.M. Baker at the University of Sheffield, United Kingdom; plant breeder Yin-Ming Li with Viridian; and a cooperator at Oregon State University. Viridian is funding the CRADA's phyto-mining research and development to the tune of $1 million over 5 years. Chaney says that to make phyto-mining as well as phytoremediation worthwhile requires, at a minimum, a plant with very high annual intake of minerals, such as the high-cadmium-accumulating pennycress variety for which they have filed a patent application. "Better still, the traits of plants like pennycress could be incorporated into a high-yielding commercial crop like canola grown for hay," Chaney says. His idea of the best hyperaccumulators? "They'd have all the characteristics of a hay crop: They should be tall, high yielding, fast growing, easy to harvest, and deep rooted. And they should hold onto their mineral-rich leaves so they can be harvested along with the plant stems."—By Don Comis, Agricultural Research Service Information Staff. Rufus L. Chaney is at the USDA-ARS Environmental Chemistry Laboratory, Bldg. 007, 10300 Baltimore Ave., Beltsville, MD 20705-2350; phone (301) 504-8324, fax (301) 504-5048.
	"Phytoremediation: Using Plants To Clean Up Soils" was published in the June 2000 issue of Agricultural Research magazine

Phytoremediation

Overview: Phytoremediation is the use of certain plants to clean up soil, sediment, and water contaminated with metals and/or organic contaminants such as crude oil, solvents, and polyaromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs). It is a name for the expansion of an old process that occurs naturally in ecosystems as both inorganic and organic constituents cycle through plants. Plant physiology, agronomy, microbiology, hydrogeology, and engineering are combined to select the proper plant and conditions for a specific site. Phytoremediation is an aesthetically pleasing mechanism that can reduce remedial costs, restore habitat, and clean up contamination in place rather than entombing it in place or transporting the problem to another site.

Phytoremediation can be used to clean up contamination in several ways:

• Phytovolatilization: Plants take up water and organic contaminants through the roots, transport them to the leaves, and release the contaminants as a reduced of detoxified vapor into the atmosphere.

• Microorganism stimulation: Plants excrete and provide enzymes and organic substances from their roots that stimulate growth of microorganisms such as fungi and bacteria. The microorganisms in the root zone then metabolize the organic contaminants.

• Phytostabilization: Plants prevent contaminants from migrating by reducing runoff, surface erosion, and ground-water flow rates. "Hydraulic pumping" can occur when tree roots reach ground water, take up large amounts of water, control the hydraulic gradient, and prevent lateral migration of contaminants within a ground water zone.

• Phytoaccumulation/extraction: Plant roots can remove metals from contaminated sites and transport them to leaves and stems for harvesting and disposal or metal recovery through smelting processes.

• Phytodegradation by plants: Organic contaminants are absorbed inside the plant and metabolized (broken down) to non-toxic molecules by natural chemical processes within the plant.

The following list gives the media, contaminants and typical plants for the types of phytoremediation listed above.

Application	Media	Contaminants	Typical Plants
1.Phytovolatization	Soil, groundwater, Landfill leachate, land application of wastewater	Herbicides (atrazine, alachlor); Aromatics (BTEX); Chlorinated aliphatics(TCE); Nutrients; Ammunition wastes(TNT,RDX)	Phreatophyte trees(poplar,willow, cottonwood,aspen); Grasses(rye, Bermuda, sorghum, fescue); Legumes (clover, alfalfa, cowpeas)
2.Microorganism stimulation	Soil, sediments, Land application of waste water	Organic contaminants(pesticides aromatic, and polynuclear aromatic hydrocarbons	Phenolics releasers(mulberry, apple,osage orange); Grasses with fribous roots(rye,fescue,bermuda); Aquatic plants for sediments
3.Phytostabilization	Soil, sediments	Metals(Pb,Cd,Zn,As,Cu,Cr,Se,U), Hydrophobic Organics(PAH,PCB,DDT,dieldrin)	Phreatophyte trees to transpire large amounts of water(hydraulic control); Grasses to stabalize soil erosion; Dense root systems are needed to sorb/bind contaminants
4.Phytoaccumulation/extraction	Soil, Brownfields, sediments	Metals(Pb,Cd,Zn,As,Cu,Cr,Se,U) with EDTA addition for Pb Selenium	Sunflowers; Indian Mustard; Rape seed plants; Barle, Hops; Crucifers; Serpentine plants; Nettles, dandelions
5.Degradation	Soil, groundwater, Landfill leachate, land application of wastewater	Herbicides (atrazine, alachlor); Aromatics (BTEX); Chlorinated aliphatics(TCE); Nutrients; Ammunition wastes(TNT,RDX)	Phreatophyte trees(poplar,willow, cottonwood,aspen); Grasses(rye, Bermuda, sorghum, fescue); Legumes (clover, alfalfa, cowpeas)

Advantages and Disadvantages of Phytoremediation

When using phytoremediation there are many positive and negative aspects to consider. The advantages and disadvantages are listed below.

Advantages	Disadvantages
Works on a variety on organic and inorganic compounds	May take several years to remediate
Can be either In Situ/ Ex Situ	May depend on climatic conditions
Easy to implement and maintain	Restricted to sites with shallow contamination within rooting zone
Low-cost compared to other treatment methods	Harvested biomass from phytoextraction may be classified as a RCRA hazardous waste
Environmentally Friendly and aesthetically pleasing to the public	Consumption of contaminated plant tissue is also a concern.
Reduces the amount wastes to be landfilled	Possible effect on the food chain

A major advantage that is listed above is the low cost. For example, the cost of cleaning up one acre of sandy loam soil at a depth of 50cm with plants is estimated at $60,000-$100,000 compared to $400,000 for the conventional excavation and disposal method. One reason for this low cost is phytoremediation may not require expensive equipment or highly specialized personnel, and can be relatively easy to implement.

One major concern with phytoremediation is the possible affects on the food chain. For example vegetation is used that absorbs toxic or heavy metals and moles or voles eat the metal contaminated plants. The predators of the moles or voles then become victims of intoxication. All though the possibilities of such scenarios are being looked at, more fieldwork and analysis is necessary to understand the possible effects phytoremediation can have.

Regulatory issues

As of now phytoremediation is too new to be approved by regulatory agencies such as the EPA. Eventually the main question that regulators will focus on is will phytoremediation remediate the site to the standards and reduce the risk to human health and the environment. In developing regulations for phytoremediation the following questions will need answering.

• Can it cleanup the site below action levels? On what scale?

• Does it create any toxic intermediate or products?

• Is it cost effective as alternative methods?

• Does the public accept the technology?

Contacts

• EPA citizens guide to phytoremediation - http://clu-in.org/PRODUCTS/CITGUIDE/Phyto.htm

• HSRC's phytoremediation page -http://www.engg.ksu.edu/HSRC/phytorem/
  

• Edenspace - http://www.edenspace.com

• Phytokinetics - http://www.phytokinetics.com

This fact sheet was written 2001 by Todd Zynda, Michigan State University TAB Program.

The Technical assistance for Brownfield Communities (TAB) Program provides independent technical expertise to communities with contaminated sites and promotes community involvement in site-cleanup projects. For more information about TAB, please contact Lisa Szymecko, TAB Coordinator, at (800) 490-3890.

take from : http://www.envirotools.org/factsheets/phytoremediation.shtml

WORK BREAKDOWN STRUCTURE

WORK BREAKDOWN STRUCTURE
Oleh
Dendik Subekti

Work Breakdown Structure atau dalam bahasa indonesia adalah struktur pembagian proyek merupakan suatu berntuk perencanaan manajemen proyek yang membagi habis distribusi pekerjaan dalam proyek. Dalam implementasinya WBS mengacu pada tiga pendekatan yaitu, pendekatan fase, peran dan capaian. Berikut ini merupakan salah satu studi kasus Work Breakdown Structure pada sebuah proyek lanskap dengan pendekatan fase

Studi Kasus:

Pada sebuah taman berbentuk segitiga samakaki dengan ukuran 25 M² dengan tema taman air gaya formal dengan elemen pelengkap adalah taman, kolam dengan air terjun atau air mancur dan patung. Maka work breakdown structure yang bisa dibuat berdasarkan pendekatan fase adalah:

1. Pendahuluan
1.1 Survey AwalKonsultasi Pendahuluan
1.1.1 Kerangka Acuan Kerja (KAK)/ Term of Refference (TOR)
1.1.2 Verifikasi Aspek Legal Formal
2. Survey dan Analisa Tapak
2.1 Survey Kondisi Eksisting Tapak
2.1.1 Topografi
2.1.2 Kontur
2.1.3 Kondisi Mikroklimat
2.1.4 Batasan Tapak
2.1.5 Sirkulasi dan Pencapaian
2.1.6 Sumber Air dan Drainase Alamiah Tapak
2.1.7 Sumber Tenaga Listrik
2.2 Feel of The Land
2.2.1 Menilai potensi
2.2.2 Merasakan Ameniti
2.2.3 Merasakan Potensi dan Kendala langsung
2.2.4 Mencari view yang potensial
2.3 Kajian Literatur/ Referensi
2.3.1 Tinjauan Sejarah Tapak
2.3.2 Tinjauan Aspek Ekologi
2.3.3 Tinjauan Aspek Sosial Budaya Pengguna
2.4 Konsultasi Hasil Survey
2.4.1 Pendekatan Kerangka Acuan Kerja dengan Kondisi Eksisting
3. Perencanaan Konseptual
3.1 Konsep Disain
3.2 Alternatif Konsep
3.2.1. Berdasarkan Efisiensi Biaya
3.2.2. Pemilihan Jenis Material
3.3. Konsultasi Disain 1
3.3.1 Pemilihan Konsep Terpilih
3.3.2 Revisi Disain
4. Perancangan Pengembangan
4.1 Preliminary Masterplan
4.2 Masterplan
4.3 Detailed Enginering design (DED)
4.4 Pemilihan jenis kualitas dan jenis material
4.4.1 Soft Material
4.4.2 Hard Material
4.5 Konsultasi Disain 2
4.6 Detail Gambar kerja
4.7 Rencana Kerja dan Syarat (RKS)
5. Pelaksanaan
5.1 Perijinan
5.1.1 Pemerintah
5.1.2 Stake Holder
5.2 Proses Tender/ Penunjukan Pelaksana
5.2.1 Aanwijzing
5.2.2 Pengumpulan Berkas
5.2.3 Negosiasi Harga
5.2.4 Pengumuman Pemenang Tender
5.2.5 Surat Perjanjian Kerja (SPK)
5.3 Pekerjaan Persiapan
5.3.1 Pembersihan Lahan
5.3.2 Pemasangan Bowplank
5.3.3 Belanja Material
5.3.3.1 Patung
5.3.3.2 Material Kolam
5.3.3.2.1. Water Fountain Set
5.3.3.2.2. Material Fondasi
5.3.3.2.3. Material Dinding
5.3.3.3 Vegetasi
5.3.3.3.1 Ground Cover
5.3.3.3.2 Semak/Perdu
5.3.3.3.3 Pohon
5.3.3.4 Perlengkapan Kerja
5.4 Pekerjaan Struktur Hard Material
5.4.1 Kolam
5.4.1.1 Struktur Pondasi
5.4.1.2 Aplikasi Dinding Kolam
5.4.1.3 Pemasangan Water Fountain Set
5.4.1.4 Finishing
5.4.2 Patung
5.4.2.1 Struktur Pondasi
5.4.2.2 Pemasangan Patung
5.4.2.3 Finishing
5.5 Pekerjaan Soft Material
5.5.1 Penentuan Titik Tanam
5.5.2 Penanaman Pohon
5.5.3 Penanaman Semak/Perdu
5.5.4 Penanaman Ground Cover
5.6 Berita Acara Serah Terima Pekerjaan (BAST 1)
6. Perawatan
6.1 Masa Garansi
6.1.1 Penyiraman Vegetasi Secara Berkala
6.1.2 Pembersihan dan Perawatan Hard Material Secara Berkala
6.2 Berita Acara Serah Terima Pekerjaan (BAST 2)
6.3 Perawatan Mandiri
6.3.1 Penyiraman Vegetasi Secara Berkala
6.3.2 Pembersihan dan Perawatan Hard Material Secara Berkala

Drawing a Landscape Plan: The Base Map

Drawing a Landscape Plan:
The Base Map
David Berle
Extension Specialist
Preparing a landscape plan can be an enjoyable
and satisfying experience with a little homework
and some simple guidelines. Though helpful,
a landscape base map can be drawn without a
computer, special software or even expensive
drafting supplies to develop a landscape plan. The
first step in preparing a landscape plan is to draw a
base map. The base map is an accurate representation
of the existing landscape, scaled to fit the
paper, showing information such as house dimensions,
distance to street, location of trees or woods,
and driveway and sidewalks, if these are already
present in the landscape.
What to Include
A good base map should show all buildings,
with sidewalks and driveway. The outline or footprint
of the house should also include the location
of doors, windows, heating and air conditioning
units, and spigots. Draw the street in front of the
house along with the property lines. The base map
should also include the locations of meters, utility
boxes and poles as these are expensive to move
and require occasional access. Some base maps also
show details such as the location of overhead and
underground utilities, streams, ditches and any
easements or setbacks. Interesting landscape features
such as rock outcroppings or streams could
also be drawn on landscape base map. This information
is usually drawn after a site analysis.(See
Fact Sheet 104, Drawing a Landscape Plan: Site Analysis,
for more information on conducting a site
analysis.)
Drawing Materials
The base map is a plan view drawing, which is a
bird’s-eye view of the landscape. Features of the
landscape are drawn with a sharp pencil or rolling
ink pen. The type of writing utensil is up the person
drawing the plan. Some like a mechanical
pencil while others prefer an ink pen. Most beginners
prefer to draw landscape plans using a regular
pencil and a good eraser. Drafting pencils vary,
based on the hardness of the lead. The typical
rating system for drafting pencils goes from 6H to
6Band, where 6H is very hard and light and 6B is
very soft and dark. Different pencil lead weights
help depict the landscape features in different
ways. Ink pens make clearer, darker lines, but
erasing is almost impossible. Smearing is a potential
problem with ink pens. If used, inexpensive
pens with a rolling tip work almost as well as the
more expensive professional pens with interchangeable
heads.
The type of paper used to draw a landscape
plan depends on the type of copy that will be made
and how the plan will be used. Landscape architects
usually draw on a strong tracing paper called
vellum and copy onto bond, which is the same as
most computer printers use. Graph paper, whether
vellum or bond, helps beginners make accurate
measurements and makes it easier to calculate the
area of an enclosed space. Each square on the
graph paper can be used to represent a specific
dimension. For example, if one square equals a
square foot, a square that is 4 squares by 4 squares
in size would represent 16 square feet.
Blue-lined graph paper can be copied and the
graph lines will not show if the copier is at a lighter
setting. Purple-lined graph paper can be blueprinted
and the lines will not print. Graph paper is
available in regular white bond paper or special
tracing paper called vellum. Vellum paper is easier
to erase and it copies and blueprints better than
either regular bond or tracing paper. Large graph
paper is usually available wherever art supplies are
sold and can be found at a blueprint supply companies
and internet stores. With a base map complete,
tracing paper can be laid overtop to experiment
with different landscape ideas.
Straight lines and circles are drawn to represent
the elements of the landscape. For example, circles
are drawn to represent the approximate area
covered by the tree canopy. A common ruler and
circular objects such as coins and jar lids can be
used, or inexpensive templates are available from
office supply stores. Everything can be drawn freehand,
depending on skill and accuracy required.
Drawing boards and drafting tables are used by
professionals to provide a clean, smooth surface for
drawing. Some come with a sliding straight edge
connected. These special boards are expensive for
one-time users, but may be worth the expense if
drawing is a frequent activity. Otherwise, the
drawing paper can be placed on a clean, smooth
table.
Scaled Drawing
The drawing of the landscape should be scaled
to accurately to depict the landscape and allow
measurements to be taken from the drawing. A
scaled drawing means that measurements taken
outside will be drawn in a much smaller dimension
on the paper, depending on the size of scale used.
A 100-foot long driveway will be drawn in inches
on the drawing. Most landscape plans are drawn to
a scale of 1:10, which means that 10 feet on the
ground equals 1 inch on paper. For example, a 100-
foot driveway would be 10 inches on paper. Using
a 1:4 scale, 100 feet would be 25 inches on paper.
Popular landscape scales are 1:4, 1:5, 1:8, 1:10, 1:16
and 1:20. Scales of 1:4, 1:8 or 1:16 match the common
increments used on a conventional ruler, but
scales of 1:10 and 1:20 are used by engineers and
landscape architects. Scaled rulers, especially for
drafting, are available with multiple scale increments
marked on them. They are inexpensive and
make the drawing easier.
The size of paper and the size of area to represent
will determine the scale chosen. The larger the
piece of paper, the smaller scale possible, making it
easier to read. If the landscape area cannot fit onto
the paper without scaling down to a size that is
difficult to read, several sheets of paper will be
necessary.
Measuring and Mapping
If the house is fairly new, much of the base
information will be found on a property survey,
subdivision plat or deed. Current property maps
and base information are often available from the
local planning office. County tax offices may also
be a source of information. If none of these are
available, it will be necessary to take the measurements
and create a base map. For this job, a 100-
foot measuring tape is helpful. First, locate the
property corner markers. If none are found, estimate
their locations. Measure from each corner
point and record this on a sketch of the property.
Make the sketch approximately the shape of the
property boundary line. This process may take
several attempts to get accurate dimensions that fit
together to form the boundary, but the time spent
Figure 1. Example of base map
at this step will make the rest of the drawing easier
and more accurate.
If the corner markers cannot be found, avoid
landscape activity close to the estimated boundary
that will impose on neighbors and possibly violate
local zoning and building codes. If there is any
question about property line location, the cost of a
professional surveyor will pay for itself in the long
run. If the property is too large to measure, consider
mapping just the area chosen for the landscape
project.
Measure the street and sidewalk in relation to
the property lines before locating the house. In
most situations, there are setbacks and easements
from the street that could affect the landscape
plans, so check with the local planning office to get
this information and draw in these lines as well.
Next, take measurements of the house by starting
at a corner that faces the street. Sketch in the
approximate outline, or footprint, of the house.
Show all the corners and turns. Then measure from
the first corner of the house to the next point the
house changes direction and record this distance
on the sketch. Measure from this second point on
the house to the street. Keep the measuring tape as
straight as possible. Continue along the front of the
house, measuring to each turning point, and then
out to the street. Every point does not need a measurement
to the street. When finished measuring
along the front of the house, move to the other
three sides. Be sure to measure and locate on the
drawing items such as porches, air conditioning
units, steps and the front door. These, and other
similar elements, can be critical to the final design.
Once the house is measured on all sides, stop and
draw a scaled version of the entire house or the
portions that relate to the landscape plan. This will
serve as guide for the remaining measurements.
With the house drawn on the base map, move
out into the yard and record measurements of
existing beds, natural areas, individual trees and
any other landscape elements such as gardens or
dog pens. The easiest way to measure the locations
of landscape features is to measure the distance
from the house or known location and a second
fixed location, such as the street or driveway. This
will increase the accuracy of the drawing and make
it easier to draw on the plan. For example, to locate
a tree in the yard, measure from two different
corners on the house to the tree. The two distances
can be matched up on the base map to correctly
show the location of the tree.
Copies and Prints
Once the measuring and drawing of all the
features is complete, the base map can be “cleaned
up” with an eraser or “white out” to remove
smudge marks, crooked lines and any other nonessential
lines or notes. This drawing can then be
copied onto standard white bond paper. Make
several copies of the base map without any new
project work shown. Any future design work can
be drawn on these copies or drawn on tracing
paper or vellum laid over the top.

rain garden

hat is a rain garden?

A "rain garden" is a man-made depression in the ground that is used as a landscape tool to improve water quality. The rain garden forms a "bioretention area" by collecting water runoff and storing it, permitting it be filtered and slowly absorbed by the soil. The bioretention concept is based on the hydrologic function of forest habitat, in which the forest produces a spongy litter layer that soaks up water and allows it to slowly penetrate the soil layer. The site for the rain garden should be placed strategically to intercept water runoff.

A nutrient removal or "filtering" process takes place as the water comes in contact with the soil and the roots of the trees, shrubs and vegetation. This process accounts for the improved water quality. The first flush of rain water is ponded in the depression of the rain garden, and contains the highest concentration of materials washed off impervious surfaces such as roofs, roads, and parking lots.

Who Should Create A Rain Garden?

Rain gardens are suitable for any land use situation, residential, commercial and industrial. A rain garden should be placed so that impervious surfaces will drain into the depression area. Its purpose is to minimize the volume and improve the quality of water entering conventional storm drains and nearby streams.

Grass buffer strip

A grass buffer strip slows water as it enters the rain garden and its surface filters particulates from the runoff.

Ponding area

The depression area stores the water, provides for evaporation, and allows the particulate material, not filtered by the grass buffer, to settle to the bottom. The ponding area should have a depth of 6 inches, sufficient to provide adequate water storage, but should not pond in excess of four days (to avoid mosquito and other insect breeding).

Components of a rain garden

Mulch/Organic Layer

This material provides for the decomposition of organic material, and also plays an important role in the removal of metals. Shredded hardwood mulch is the preferred choice, since it allows for maximum surface area for binding and resists flotation/washout.

Planting Soil

Organic matter in the form of leaf mulch (20%) blended into a sandy soil (50%) with and about 30% top soil. The planting soil mixture provides a source of water and nutrients for the plants to sustain growth. Clay particles adsorb heavy metals, hydrocarbons and other pollutants.

Plant Selection

A planting plan design should include species that tolerate extremes. There will be periods of water inundation and very dry periods. Most riparian plant species will do well in rain gardens. The choice of species should include plants that mimic forest habitat and have an aesthetic landscape value such as flowers, berries, interesting leaves or bark. Groundcovers, perennials shrubs and trees should be incorporated into the planting design.

Site Considerations

Each site should be considered unique. Microclimates (light, temperature and wind), and the size of the drainage area will influence the size of the rain garden and plant selection process.
Software is being developed for sizing the gardens. The shape of the garden is not as important as the area available for bioretention. The size of the bioretention area should be 5% to 7% of the drainage areas multiplied by the crop "c" coefficient (the ground cover type). For example, a 3/10 acre drainage area would use a rain garden of about 600 square feet, or 15 x 40 feet.