Thursday, September 11, 2008

Working with a Garden Designer

by David Berle

Extention Specialist


Designing a landscape is much like designing the interior of a house. Colors, patterns, and textures must be arranged in a manner that is functional and suits the taste of the owner. The one major difference with landscape design is that most of the elements are living, providing seasonal change and forever growing taller and wider. An experienced garden designer has the ability to figure all this information into the design, but the homeowners must do their homework and be prepared to talk to the designer. This fact sheet will help when working with a landscape designer.

Landscaping Goals

Prior to hiring a garden designer, have basic goals in mind. Skilled questioning by the designer will help prioritize the goals and keep them realistic. He or she will discuss the full range of choices and options available to help you make informed decisions about everything from water gardens and lighting to trees and turf grass variety. Because so many options are available, professional guidance can help make the best choices but only if there is dialogue between homeowner and designer. The first question to answer is “What purpose will the landscape serve?” Is cooking a hobby that requires fresh herbs and vegetables? Is the landscape viewed only from the house, or will the occupants spend time outdoors? Are children a consideration? Is outdoor cooking and entertaining

likely? Is privacy — like building a hedge to separate the yard from the neighbor’s — an important issue?

The designer will also need to know how long a homeowner plans to remain in the house. This will affect the type and size of plants specified. Though the subject of budget is tricky, it is important to provide a rough estimate to keep the scale of design within those constraints. The answers to these personal questions need to be shared during the initial meeting with the garden designer.

Landscape Preferences

Even though the garden designer will be drawing the final plan, the homeowner can help by collecting pictures of desirable landscapes and making notes about what is attractive about them. A list of preferred and disliked plants is a good starting point for plant selection. A similar list of color preferences will help with the selection of certain plants or varieties. A folder of clippings and lists given to the designer during the initial meeting will speed the process along and avoid costly revisions due to misunderstandings.

Charges and Services: What to Expect

“You get what you pay for,” is an expression that applies to landscape design. Garden designer fees vary. Some designers charge an hourly rate. Others charge a flat fee based on the extent of the project and the amount of detail required. Services provided also vary and depend on the scope of the project. Some companies provide a complete package that includes design, installation and maintenance, thus establishing a long-term relationship with the client. Other professionals are limited to design and consulting and may subcontract with other firms for installation and maintenance, or they may suggest a firm to do the installation. The landscape plan can be achieved in many different ways. It may be a simple consultation with verbal instruction or it may be an elaborate drawing. The plan from a landscape designer may include a concept plan (various ideas about what to do with the property), a master plan (drawings showing a specific vision for the site), or a detailed construction plan that will enable the homeowner (or a professional landscape contractor) to construct the project. Detailed construction plans may include site plans, grading plans, planting/landscape plans, construction plans and details, irrigation plans and lighting plans. Garden designers can also provide detailed construction specifications, bidding documents, and construction supervision and management.

The more detailed drawings and specifications required, the more likely the services of a landscape architect will be required. Some projects may require more than one visit or multiple preliminary drawings to arrive at a suitable plan. Some designs are so detailed or sitedependant, they may require close supervision by the designer. Be sure to discuss the specifics of what drawings and services will be provided and how much each part of the process will cost before hiring any garden designer. Like other professional services, garden designers should provide a written estimate and formal agreement for services provided. It is not unusual for these agreements to leave room for flexibility in cost, depending on such things as the amount of information provided, the number of revisions required, and the extent of drawings required for the project. Shop around; fees and services can vary greatly. A better deal is usually possible if the same firm designs, installs and maintains the landscape.

Other Considerations

A garden design project may require special permits or approval, depending on local restrictions such as condominium guidelines, city zoning laws, neighborhood covenants and even waterwise restrictions. A good landscape designer should be knowledgeable about these requirements and help move the landscape project through any approval process. Just because someone is hired to draw a plan, however, does not exclude the homeowner from liability for violations. Working with a garden designer can be a pleasurable experience. The exchange of ideas and solutions between homeowner and designer is often stimulating and the end result is a beautiful landscape that makes both parties proud.

Tuesday, September 2, 2008

Spring Flowering Bulbs


Giant Flowering Onion

Giant Flowering Onion - Allium giganteum

Family: Amaryllidaceae (Amaryllis) Zone 5

How to Plant: bulb; plant 6 to 8 inches deep and one foot apart in the fall

Habit: upright in foliage and flower

Foliage: bluish gray; strap-shaped; 18 inches long; 2 to 4 inches wide

Flower: pinkish purple; borne in dense globe-shaped cluster 4 to 6 inches across; flower stalk 3 to 4 feet tall; late spring to early summer

Culture: ordinary soil; full sun or partial shade; dramatic in flower - plant in clusters of 5 to 7 bulbs; usually planted in back of the perennial border; long-lasting as cut flower

Windflower

Grecian Windflower, Green Anemone - Anemone blanda

Family: Ranunculaceae (Buttercup) Zone 6

How to Plant: tuberous root; plant 2 to 3 inches deep and 3 to 4 inches apart

Habit: mounded; less than 6 inches

Foliage: 1 or 2 dark green basal leaves; divided; dies down by midsummer

Flower: no true petals - has petal-like sepals; daisy-like flowers 1-1/2 to 2 inches wide; white, pinkish, blue and white; early spring

Culture: humus-rich, loamy soil; tolerated high pH; partial shade and protection from wind prolongs flowering

Glory of the Snow

Glory-of-the-Snow - Chionodoxa luciliae

Family: Liliaceae (Lily) Zone 4

How to Plant: bulb; plant 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart in fall

Habit: upright; 3 to 6 inches

Foliage: grasslike; dark green; 2 leaves per stem

Flower: blue with white center; about 5 in a cluster; each flower 1 inch across; star-like flowers borne on a reddish stalk that extends above foliage; early spring

Culture: ordinary, well-drained soil; suitable for under-planting deciduous shrubs; plant in masses for immediate effect; will multiply slowly by self seeding

Crocus

Crocus - Crocus species

Family: Iridaceae (Iris) Zone 4

How to Plant: corm; plant 3 inches deep and 4 inches apart in fall

Habit: upright; 6 inches

Foliage: grasslike; dark green; curved; silver striped down center of leaf; leaves shorter than flowers, then expand to 8 to 12 inches after flowering

Flower: 1 1 /2 to 8 inches long; white, yellow, purple or striped; usually borne singly; close at night or on cloudy days; spring

Culture: plant in well-drained soil; full sun or partial shade; may be naturalized in lawns if foliage is allowed to ripen properly

Note: There are 3 main groups of crocus: C. chrysanthus (Golden Crocus) flowers very early and has small flowers; C. vernus (Dutch Crocus) is most popular and has larger flowers (many named cultivars of crocus are in this group); the third group is comprised of botanic species, that tend to have small, brightly colored flowers. There are Crocus species that flower in autumn.

Aconite

Winter Aconite - Eranthis hyemalis

Family: Ranunculaceae (Buttercup) Zone 4

How to Plant: tuber; plant 3 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart in early fall; soak tubers overnight before planting

Habit: upright; 3 to 8 inches

Foliage: basal; long petioles; deeply divided; leafy bract situated immediately under flower; actual foliage develops as flowering ends; dies down in summer

Flower: solitary; one inch across; yellow petallike sepals; very early spring

Culture: partial shade to full sun; well-drained, moist soil; plant in masses; good for naturalizing; will self-sow

Checkered Lily

Checkered Lily, Guinea-Hen Flower - Fritillaria meleagris

Family: Liliaceae (Lily) Zone 4

How to Plant: bulb; plant 4 to 6 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart in early fall

Habit: erect; 9 to 15 inches

Foliage: few, alternate leaves; linear; 3 to 6 inches long

Flower: drooping; usually solitary; white or mottled and veined with bronze, gray, purple and white; 1-1/2 inches long; spring

Culture: full sun or light shade; moist, well-drained soil; propagate by dividing after foliage ripens

Note: Arelated species, F. imperialis (Crown Imperial), bears several pendant flowers atop a 2 to 4 foot stalk with a tuft of leaves at the top of the stalk; flowers are bright yellow or orange.

Snowdrop

Common Snowdrop - Galanthus nivalis

Family: Amaryllidaceae (Amaryllis) Zone 4

How to Plant: bulb; plant 3 inches deep and 3 inches apart in fall

Habit: upright; 6 to 8 inches

Foliage: 2 to 3 leaves; 1/4 inch wide; 6 inches long

Flower: white except for green crescent around the notch of inner floral segments; external floral segments longer than inner ones; flower drooping; 1/2 inch across; borne on slender stalk; very early spring; cultivars may have more green in flowers or be doubled

Culture: partial to full shade; moist, well-drained soil with high organic matter; naturalize in large drifts; propagate by dividing clumps immediately after flowering

Hyacinth

Common Hyacinth - Hyacinthus orientalis

Family: Liliaceae (Lily) Zone 5

How to Plant: bulb; plant 7 inches deep and 6 to 9 inches apart in fall

Habit: upright; 12 inches

Foliage: 4 to 6 basal leaves; strap-shaped; margins upturned; 1 inch wide and up to 12 inches long

Flower: many flowers in showy, crowded, terminal raceme; individual flowers about 1 inch across; very fragrant; yellow, rose, pink, blue, salmon and white; mid-spring

Culture: full sun; good drainage; fertile soil amended with organic matter and sand; remove spent flower stalks; floral display gradually decreases each year - dig and discard bulbs as necessary; flowers too rigid for naturalizing; many named cultivars available

Dutch Hybrid Iris

Dutch Hybrid Iris - Iris hybrids

Family: Iridaceae (Iris) Zone 6

How to Plant: bulb; plant 5 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart in the fall

Habit: upright; 1-1/2 to 2 feet

Foliage: leaves almost cylindrical; up to 2 feet long; tips of leaves may tend to die back

Flower: 1 or 2 flowers; 3 to 4 inches across; white, yellow, orange, bronze, blue, purple or bicolor; late spring

Culture: full sun; well-drained soil; dry, warm soil in summer is ideal; good for forcing indoors

Note: Dutch Hybrid Iris originated by crossing Spanish Iris (Iris xiphium) with several other Iris species; Dutch Iris is a common cut flower used by florists

Grape Hyacinth

Common Grape Hyacinth - Muscari botryoides

Family: Liliaceae (Lily) Zone 4

How to Plant: bulb; plant 3 inches deep and 4 inches apart in early fall

Habit: upright; 6 to 12 inches

Foliage: 6 to 8 basal leaves; up to 12 inches long and 1/3 inch wide; dark green on lower surface; appear in autumn and remain green through winter; dormant in summer

Flower: 12 to 20 flowers in terminal cluster on leafless flower stem; each flower urn shaped and drooping; blue or white; 1/8 inch long; early spring

Culture: fertile, sandy soil in full sun or partial shade; plant in masses for best effect

Note: Arelated species, M. armeniacum, self seeds more aggressively and is more invasive.

Daffodil

Daffodil, Narcissus, Jonquil - Narcissus species

Family: Amaryllidaceae (Amaryllis) Zone varies

How to Plant: bulb; plant 6 inches deep and 6 to 12 inches apart (smaller species bulbs require more shallow placement)

Habit: upright; 6 to 24 inches

Foliage: about 3/4 inch wide; up to 15 inches long; shiny green

Flower: one or several flowers to a stalk; 6 lower segments white or yellow; trumpet long and tubular or short and cuplike, white, pink, yellow, orange and orange-red; flowers single or double; extremely variable - Narcissus are grouped into 12 named divisions; early spring to spring

Culture: well-drained soil enriched with organic matter; divide every fourth year after leaves have died; easy to grow; remove faded flowers so they don’t set seeds

Note: The name daffodil applies primarily to flowers with large trumpets and can be used for all members of the genus; the name jonquil originally applied only to N. jonquilla, but now is usually applied to all jonquilla daffodils of garden origin (Division 7); the name narcissus is derived from the genus name Narcissus.

Siberian Squill

Siberian Squill - Scilla siberica

Family: Liliaceae (Lily) Zone 4

How to Plant: bulb; plant 3 inches deep and 4 to 6 inches apart in early fall

Habit: upright; 6 inches

Foliage: 2 to 5 grasslike, basal leaves; 6 inches long and 1/2 inch wide; blunt tipped and bright green

Flower: deep blue; bell shaped; 1/2 inch wide; in loose cluster of 3 to 5; 1 to 6 flower stems per plant; early spring

Culture: fertile, sandy soil in sun or partial shade; useful under deciduous shrubs and trees; plant in large masses for best effect; tend to colonize over time; suitable for naturalizing in the lawn (foliage matures quickly before turfgrass needs cutting)

Tulip

Tulip - Tulipa species

Family: Liliaceae (Lily) Zone varies

How to Plant: bulb; plant 4 to 8 inches deep and 4 to 8 inches apart in fall; deep planting (within reason) discourages bulbs multiplication and encourages good-sized flowers for several years; species tulips usually require shallower planting

Habit: upright or clumped; 6 to 30 inches

Foliage: usually basal; thick bluish green; untoothed; 6 to 10 inches long; Kaufmanniana and Greigii hybrids often have burgundy-or purple-mottled leaves

Flower: usually solitary; erect; saucer-shaped; total of 6 petals and sepals (except doubles); multitude of colors and flower forms (there are over 400 named cultivars: common classes are Mendel, Fosteriana hybrids, Kaufmanniana hybrids, Greigii hybrids, Triumph, Darwin hybrid, Lily-flowered, Cottage, Rembrandt, Parrot, Double-flowered and Species tulips); early spring to spring

Culture: well-drained, sandy, humus-rich soil in full sun or partial shade; plant in masses; bulbs may be moved or discarded in midsummer after foliage has withered; some gardeners plant new bulbs each year; remove faded flowers to avoid seed set

from http://www.urbanext.uiuc.edu/bulbs/springbulbs.html

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